Deck oiling in Melbourne costs $25–$45 per square metre in 2026 for a wash and two coats of oil, and a full deck restoration (wash, sand back, oil) runs $45–$80 per square metre. On a typical 20 m² deck that’s $500–$900 for a re-oil and $900–$1,600 for a restoration. Most Melbourne decks need oil every 12–18 months, and a grey, weathered deck can almost always be brought back without replacing boards. This guide covers the oil vs stain vs paint decision, the restoration process step by step, and the real costs.
We’ve looked after Melbourne timber, decks, fences, weatherboards, since 1987, we carry $20M public liability, and deck and fence work is quoted at a fixed price after we’ve seen the timber.
Key takeaway
Oil is the default for Melbourne decks: $25–$45/m² to re-oil, $45–$80/m² for a full wash-sand-oil restoration. Oil fades instead of peeling, so maintenance stays cheap. Stain adds colour, paint is a last resort on a walking surface. Re-oil every 12–18 months, or every 9–12 in full sun.
Should you oil, stain or paint your deck?
Oil your deck if the timber is worth showing, stain it if the boards are mismatched or tired, and only paint it when the timber is too far gone for anything else. The three finishes fail in very different ways, and on a horizontal surface that cops sun, rain and foot traffic, how a finish fails matters more than how it looks on day one.
| Finish | Look | How it wears | Maintenance | Reversible? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Decking oil | Natural timber, enhances grain | Fades and dries out gradually | Re-coat every 12–18 months, no stripping | Yes, just weathers off |
| Deck stain | Stronger colour, some grain visible | Wears through in traffic paths | Re-coat every 1–2 years, may need light sand | Partially, colour lingers in the grain |
| Deck paint | Solid colour, hides the timber | Peels and flakes as a film | Strip or sand peeling areas before re-coat | No, very hard to get back to timber |
Oil is the forgiving option. It soaks into the timber rather than forming a film, so when it wears out the deck just goes dull and grey, and the fix is a clean and a fresh coat. Paint on a deck fails the ugly way: moisture gets under the film through foot-traffic scratches and board movement, and it peels in sheets. That’s why we’ll talk most homeowners out of painting a deck that can still be oiled. Fences are a different story, paint and solid stains hold up well on vertical timber, and our fence painting guide covers that side.
Key takeaway: Oil unless you have a reason not to. Stain for colour correction, paint only for timber that’s past saving cosmetically.
How do you restore a weathered deck?
A proper deck restoration is three stages: wash, sand, oil. Skipping the sand is the number one reason restored decks go patchy within months. Grey timber is dead, UV-damaged surface fibre, and oil applied over it sits in dead wood instead of bonding into sound timber.
Here’s the process we run on a restoration:
- Inspect and repair. Check for rot (a screwdriver pressed into suspect boards tells you fast), re-drive or replace popped nails and screws, and swap any boards that are split or cupped past saving.
- Wash. A dedicated deck cleaner (oxalic acid based for grey timber and tannin stains) scrubbed in and rinsed off. A pressure washer helps, but kept on a wide fan and low pressure, high pressure furs the timber surface.
- Let it dry. Two to three dry days in Melbourne. Oiling damp timber traps moisture and the coat fails early.
- Sand. Back to fresh timber, usually 60–80 grit on a drum or orbital sander, hand-sanding edges and around balustrades. This is most of the labour in a restoration.
- Oil. Two coats of quality decking oil, working along the board length, keeping a wet edge so laps don’t show. Coats go on thin, oil left sitting on the surface goes tacky and patchy.
Timing matters in Melbourne. Oil wants a dry day between about 10°C and 30°C, and no rain for 24 hours after. Autumn and spring are ideal, hot January days flash the oil off too fast, and mid-winter can leave boards damp for weeks. There’s more on seasonal timing in our best time to paint in Melbourne guide.
Key takeaway: Wash, dry, sand, then oil. Every shortcut in that sequence shows up as patchiness within a season.
How much does deck oiling and restoration cost in Melbourne?
Deck oiling costs $25–$45 per square metre in Melbourne in 2026, and a full restoration costs $45–$80 per square metre, with balustrades, stairs and screens priced on top. Here’s how that lands on common deck sizes:
| Job | Rate per m² | 15 m² deck | 25 m² deck | 40 m² deck |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Re-oil (wash + 2 coats) | $25–$45 | $400–$700 | $650–$1,100 | $1,000–$1,800 |
| Full restoration (wash, sand, 2 coats) | $45–$80 | $700–$1,200 | $1,100–$2,000 | $1,800–$3,200 |
| Stain over prepared timber | $30–$50 | $450–$750 | $750–$1,250 | $1,200–$2,000 |
Three things move a deck quote inside those ranges:
- Condition. A deck that’s silver-grey all over needs the full sand. One oiled 18 months ago just needs a wash and coat. That’s the difference between the two rows above.
- Detail. Balustrades, handrails, privacy screens and stairs are slow, fiddly work priced per item, and on some decks they’re half the job.
- Board gaps and access. Tight board gaps, decks close to the ground, and multi-level decks all slow the work down.
On materials, a 10L pail of quality decking oil (Cabot’s Aquadeck, Intergrain UltraDeck or Feast Watson) runs $150–$230 at 2026 shelf prices and covers roughly 25 m² with two coats. So a DIY re-oil on an average deck is $100–$250 in materials, which is worth knowing when you weigh up the quote.
Key takeaway: Condition sets the price. Re-oiling on schedule at $25–$45/m² is far cheaper than letting the deck grey off and paying restoration rates.
How often should you re-oil a deck in Melbourne?
Every 12–18 months for most Melbourne decks, and every 9–12 months for north or west-facing decks in full sun. Melbourne’s weather is genuinely hard on decking: high summer UV, wet winters, and big swings in between that keep timber expanding and contracting. The Bureau of Meteorology puts Melbourne at over 2,000 hours of sunshine a year, and every one of them is working on the oil in your boards.
Rough guide by exposure:
| Deck situation | Re-oil interval |
|---|---|
| Full sun, north or west facing, uncovered | 9–12 months |
| Part shade, some cover | 12–18 months |
| Under a pergola or verandah roof | 18–24 months |
Don’t run on the calendar alone. The water-bead test is the honest answer: flick water on the boards, and if it beads, the oil is still working. If it soaks in within a minute or two, the timber is drinking water every time it rains, and grey weathering has started. Merbau and other dense hardwoods also bleed tannin for the first year or two, so new decks often want a first oil at 4–8 weeks and a second within the first year.
Key takeaway: Water beads means the oil is alive. Water soaking in means you’re overdue, and the longer you wait, the closer you get to paying for a sand.
Should you DIY deck oiling or hire a professional?
A maintenance re-oil is a fair DIY job. A full restoration usually isn’t. The honest split:
- DIY makes sense for a wash and re-coat on a deck that’s still in reasonable condition. It’s a weekend, $100–$250 in cleaner and oil, and the technique (thin coats, along the boards, keep a wet edge) is learnable.
- A professional makes sense when the deck has gone grey and needs sanding, when there’s rot or loose boards to sort, when balustrades and stairs turn it into a multi-day job, or when the deck is high enough that working at the edge is a real fall risk. A pro also picks the right oil for your timber and gets the coverage even, which is where DIY restorations usually go wrong.
The general trade-offs are the same as any painting job, and we’ve covered them in our DIY vs professional painting guide. The pattern we see most: homeowners DIY the in-between coats, and call us every few years for the reset, or bundle the deck in with an exterior repaint so it’s one setup and one bill.
Want a fixed price to bring your deck back?
Free on-site inspection and a fixed written quote for oiling, staining or full restoration. Looking after Melbourne timber since 1987.
Frequently asked questions
How much does deck oiling cost in Melbourne?
Deck oiling in Melbourne costs $25–$45 per square metre in 2026 for a clean-down and two coats of decking oil on timber in fair condition. A full restoration, washed, sanded back to fresh timber and oiled, runs $45–$80 per square metre. On a typical 20 m² deck that’s $500–$900 for a re-oil and $900–$1,600 for a full restoration.
Should I oil, stain or paint my deck?
Oil if you want the natural timber look and the easiest maintenance, it soaks in rather than sitting on top, so it fades instead of peeling. Stain if you want to even out mismatched or tired boards with more colour. Paint only as a last resort on badly weathered timber, because a paint film on a walking surface eventually peels and is hard to reverse.
How often should you re-oil a deck in Melbourne?
Every 12–18 months for most Melbourne decks. A north or west-facing deck in full sun needs oil every 9–12 months, while a covered deck can stretch to 2 years. The test: sprinkle water on the boards. If it soaks in within a minute or two instead of beading, the oil is spent.
Can a grey, weathered deck be restored?
Almost always, yes. Grey timber is UV-damaged surface fibre, usually only a millimetre or so deep. A restoration wash, a proper sand back to fresh timber, and two coats of oil will bring back most hardwood decks. The exceptions are rot, deep splitting, or badly cupped boards that need replacing.
Is it worth paying a professional to oil a deck?
For a straightforward re-oil on a small deck, DIY is fine and costs $100–$250 in materials. A full restoration is a different job: sanding, edging by hand, and even oil application before it tacks off. Most Melbourne homeowners DIY the maintenance coats and pay a professional for the restoration.
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Free on-site inspection and a fixed-price written quote, no obligation. Painting Melbourne homes since 1987.
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